Archive for the ‘Misc’ Category

External markings

Sunday, March 17th, 2024

I obtained a pair of vinyl N-number decals from Aerographics, and a properly-marked data plate from Aircraft Engravers. I riveted the data plate under the horizontal stabilizer, and stuck the decals on the aft fuselage. For the N-number I used my (and Mary's) initials instead of the traditional "RV" suffix, since it seems like half the CTAF traffic around here is "something something Romeo Victor".

Also from Aerographics, I picked up a set of warning labels to hopefully help people remember not to stand on the flaps:

I still have a few things left to take care of, but for the most part the only things preventing a first flight are paperwork-related:

Helicopter Instructor

Friday, April 22nd, 2022

Sorry I haven't posted any updates lately… I haven't been able to work much on the airplane, because I was spending all my free time earning my CFI in helicopters:

Sika test

Monday, May 10th, 2021

I decided to investigate the use of Sikaflex for sealing the windscreen fairing to the fuselage and canopy, to make it air- and water-tight. The techniques for using this stuff have become well-known in the amateur-built aircraft world since I started my project. If I were to start over again today I'd seriously consider doing an all-glued canopy, but since I already had the fastener holes drilled, I decided I'd more or less follow the plans for the actual windscreen attachment and use the glue only for sealing purposes.

I ordered a half-pint each of 205 Aktivator and 209D Primer, and two tubes of 295UV sealant. Since I didn't want my first experience with this stuff to be on my practically irreplaceable canopy, I decided to do a quick test using a scrap of aluminum and a piece of plexiglass from the local building materials store:

I masked a bond line on the plexiglass and a matching one on the aluminum, and used an acid brush to apply the activator, followed ten minutes later by the primer. I also applied activator and primer to a second area on the aluminum that I didn't plan to glue, just to see how the coverage would turn out. Then after waiting 30 more minutes I applied the sealant to the bond line, cleaned up the squeeze-out, and clamped the pieces together. The last thing I did was to put down a few random dabs of sealant in areas where I hadn't applied primer, so I could see how hard it would be to remove sealant if I got some in a place where I didn't want it.

24 hours later, it looks pretty much the same. The sealant has cured to the consistency of hard rubber, and the primer-only areas are glossy black with some faint brush marks visible.

As I was lead to expect, trying to break the sealant bond just resulted in bent aluminum and broken plexiglass. This stuff really is amazingly strong.

It was quite easy to remove cured sealant from un-primed areas (compare this photo to the one above). However, what's not possible is removing the primer once it's applied, or removing cured sealant that is stuck to the primer. So in fact applying the primer will probably be the most fiddly step, since it seems to stick forever to anything it touches. I'll also have to do a better job of masking the glue lines than I did with this test – note the ragged edge where I was lazy sticking down the tape.

The glued joint looks fairly nice when viewed through the other side of the plexiglass. I was worried I'd have to go to the trouble of masking and painting the reverse side of the glass to avoid having to look through the windscreen at the back of an ugly glue joint, but I don't think that will be necessary.

I wasn't totally satisfied with the amount of primer-bleeding I was getting with garden-variety blue masking tape, so I took a trip to the local automotive paint supplier looking for 3M #218 tape, which is supposed to be better for Sika masking. They didn't have any of that, but they did have some very purple 3M poly tape which I decided to test. I masked off a strip and applied activator and primer, then pulled the tape on one side immediately:

I pulled the other piece of tape the next day. Both methods seem to provide adequate results, although obviously it's better to pull the tape with the surface still wet to get a good clean line. For now I'll plan to use the purple stuff for the final glue-up.

Despite the fact that I put down paper and tried not to spill anything, I still managed to get a few drops of primer on my workbench, which seem to be resistant to my entire arsenal of solvents. Further warning that I'll have to be extremely careful with the primer.

Helicopter pilot

Wednesday, January 6th, 2021

2020 was a bad year for a lot of reasons, but one bright spot for me personally is that over the course of the year I learned to fly helicopters. Back in January I had never even sat in one of these contraptions, and by Christmas I had earned my commercial helicopter pilot certificate with instrument rating. Due to the incredible expense I don't foresee myself doing any more helicopter flying just for recreational purposes, but this was a satisfying goal to accomplish. It was also a lot harder than I thought it would be! It's barely an exaggeration to say that the only knowledge that's really transferable from airplane flying to helicopters is the general aeronautical knowledge stuff, and the only reusable skill is knowing how to talk on the radio. Below are some pictures from a year of helicopter flying.

Somewhere over the Willamette Valley:

On the ground – I think this might have been after a checkride:

Visiting a mountain lake:

Short final – I believe this was during my first solo:

Down by the river:

Panel view:

On top and under the hood:

Mountaintop perch:

Last of three checkrides complete:

New workshop

Sunday, April 19th, 2020

Hello, is this thing on? And is anyone still reading? Anyway, here are the highlights of the past almost-five-years since I last updated this blog…

We moved to from Kansas to the Pacific Northwest:

Still married to this girl, who is still the best:

The above photos feature this 1946 Cessna 140, which I now co-own with a local friend:

I did a ton of skiing, since I now live close to tall mountains:

We adopted this cat, who is great:

I got into scuba diving, achieved my master diver card, traveled to some amazing places, and made some cool friends doing it:



We built a house:

It's on a residential airpark and has a hangar attached:

Should be room for two airplanes in here if I'm careful – though it isn't this empty anymore, sadly:

It's amazing how quickly a seemingly limitless amount of "stuff" accumulates overnight in a space like this. I anticipated this would happen, so I designed in a roughtly 10'x20' area at the back of the hangar to be used as a separate workshop or toolroom annex. That should at least help keep the tools and projects from totally overrunning the main part of the hangar and crowding out the airplanes.

Since this is a brand-new house, I had to start from scratch and bootstrap my way into a functioning workshop. First, since I can never have enough room for tool storage, I bought three big rolling steel toolboxes on sale from Harbor Freight.

Yes, "Harbor Fright"… look, I'll be the first to agree that a lot of their products are junk, but these particular toolboxes are actually really nice for the money. They're certainly higher quality than modern Craftsman units, which in my experience have really become bottom-of-the-barrel products.

I removed the wheels from the toolboxes, and built a 2×4 frame that surrounds them. The frame is attached to the wall studs and the toolboxes are bolted to the frame. There's a toe kick underneath, so the end result is that the tooboxes are now similar to a row of oversized kitchen base cabinets.

On top of the workbench frame I built a sub-surface made of the straightest two-by lumber I could find, laid sideways. This corner is reinforced to support a bench vise:

The workbench continues to the left, wraps around the corner, and goes all the way across the end wall:

The framework of this half is more or less basic EAA 1000 style construction, again fixed to the wall studs:

On top of all this I attached a layer of 3/4" birch plywood:

I used a handheld router to put a nice radius on the inside corner:

I dressed up the workbench with some hardwood trim, and covered the top with a sacrificial layer of 1/4" hardboard (aka masonite) to give a smooth surface. On the right side I mounted a 5" Yost pivoting vise.

Above all this I installed some steel shelf standards and built some storage shelves. I like having this storage but in retrospect I don't think I'd use this method again, since these components are kind of expensive and difficult to work with for long shelves like these. It took a lot of fiddling to get the support brackets to all line up properly.

Inside the drawers I went nuts with tool organization. Sockets:

Pliers:

Wrenches etc:

Just a whole lot of tools:

These Lista trays are my new method for drill bit organization:

I also built a couple of EAA 1000 type workbenches, in the usual fashion:

I've built enough of these things over the years that I can practically do it in my sleep, but nowadays my technique has evolved somewhat. I make the top surface out of two sheets of 3/4" plywood laminated together, and I trim the edges with hardwood to dress it up a bit. It comes out looking great and it's really not hard to do.

First I miter the corners of the trim, attach it to the edges of the plywood with glue and pin nails, and clamp it until the glue dries. The big-box stores sell 1.5" x 3/4" hardwood sticks which are perfect for this. Poplar and maple are both good material choices.

Then I use this simple jig in a small trim router to shave down the edging until it's almost level with the plywood surface. Use a straight bit and set the height to just a few thousands shy of the surface, say about the thickness of a piece of paper.

With this you can quickly remove the excess, leaving the trim protruding just a little bit above the surface:

Then I use a hand plane (this is a Stanley 60 1/2 low angle block plane) to shave off the last few thousandths, which leaves a dead-flat and glassy smooth surface:

The last step is a quick pass with the trim router and a 1/8" roundover bit to soften the edges and corners:

With this method you can achieve really nice results, especially if you apply a coat or two of wipe-on polyurethane finish:

One of the new tools I bought was a miter saw, a tool I'd always wanted but never had room for up till now. Cutting lumber with the saw sitting on the floor was killing my knees, so I built this rolling stand for it:

Construction is simple 3/4" plywood and pocket screws. It has fold-out extension wings for cutting long boards:

When not in use it folds up and rolls out of the way, and also doubles as storage for offcuts and useful scrap wood:

Another big tool I always wanted but never had room for is a router table. I still don't have frequent need for one, but it's one of those tools that makes certain jobs much easier. For this I built yet another workbench, this time mostly from plywood, and put a router plate and lift in one end.

When not in use, the router drops down out of the way, the fence is stored underneath, and it becomes just another handy workbench:

Speaking of handy, I've also been building these rolling workbenches to be the correct height to use as an outfeed table for my table saw… speaking of large tools I never had room for in the old house!

I'm still just an amateur woodworker, but it's been fun learning to use these new machines and tackling some more ambitious projects. I've done several projects for the inside of the house too.

I didn't want any of my stationary power tools to be truly stationary if I could possibly help it, so I built this ~3'x3' rolling cart to hold four different small machines all at once:

The bench grinder is the same unit I've had for ages, but the bandsaw, belt/disc sander, and 12" disc sander are all new acquisitions to replace my old worn-out machines.

This cart has a couple drawers for storing attachments and accessories:

So much for tools, now for some parts storage. Twenty-plus years of owning, maintaining, and building (theoretically) airplanes has left me with a huge variety of aircraft hardware, and I was never happy with my previous organization method, which was those same plastic drawers and plastic boxes that everybody has. I wanted something that could hold a greater quantity of small parts in less total volume, but which would also be more flexible to handle oversized parts.

I settled on Sortimo T-Boxes, which I was tipped to by an Adam Savage video. These are neat because the inserts come in different sizes and shapes, which you can combine and rearrange as required. The lids are also very secure, and there are interior features to prevent parts from migrating from one container to another. Overall they're really nicely-designed products. The whole system is not exactly cheap, but I view it as an investment in my sanity and productivity.

So I spent a couple weeks' worth of evenings moving all the aircraft parts from their previously haphazardly-organized homes into shiny new Sortimo containers:





Then I built some sturdy cabinets in the unused corner of the workshop to keep all these things in… and yes, for those paying attention to the woodworking, this was an incredible number of dado cuts:

I built another tabletop using my usual method, and voila, a "chest of drawers" full of hardware:

Next, more wall storage. I had some leftover 1/2" cabinet plywood, so I used it to put up wall paneling in the workshop, in true groovy 1970's style.

I used the table saw to cut a bunch of cleats out of 3/4" ply, each with a 45ยบ bevel on one edge:

With a homemade jig and a laser level, I attached these cleats to the wall studs at regular intervals:

This is what it looks like when finished. This is called a French cleat system, and turns your wall into a modular hanging scheme for whatever you want to put on it:



The other wall got the same treatment, just taller:

I built brackets and things on which to hang all the remaining tools that didn't have a good home yet. Nothing here is permanently attached to the wall, which makes rearranging the shop walls is a snap. I've already moved things around several times to get a more efficient layout, so I'm glad I went to the trouble of doing it this way.

Wall O' Clamps:

It was actually fun to build all these little tool hangers out of scrap wood. Plus it pleases my OCD to look at it.

The back wall is mostly plastic hanging bins containing non-aircraft hardware like nails and wood screws, plus a couple of small shelving units where I didn't want to cover over existing electrical outlets. I also built a simple hammer rack which lives behind the vise.

The wall on the this side of the workshop is mostly storage for paint, glue, grease, and other substances. On the right is storage for sandpaper and related items, and on the left is my little machine-tool area.

Dedicated space for the little lathe and mill – quite a change from the old house where I had to pack these machines away when I wasn't using them.

I built these simple storage units for sandpaper sheets, sanding discs, etc:

And here are the last two machines, which are also the biggest. The air compressor is the same faithful 60-gallon unit I've had since the beginning. The drill press is a Nova Voyager, which is a very cool new acquisition. It uses a direct-drive motor and can go from 50 RPM to 5000 RPM and back with no belt changes, just a couple of button presses. What a game-changer this thing has been.

As for future workshop projects, the main thing I'd like to do is to insulate and cover the walls of the hangar, because it gets c-o-l-d out there during the long Northwest winter. But as it's currently the warm season, and the workshop is now basically functional and everything has been unpacked at last, I think it's about time to finally get back to airplane-building.

It's funny, though… now that I live in a completely different environment, the mission for what I want to do with an airplane has really changed. In Kansas I used to want to fly as fast as possible to get to the "good stuff", but out here on the west coast the good stuff is all around me. Now what I really find the most interesting is the one thing you can't do in an RV… looking down! Maybe the RV-15 will be a high-wing? Oh well, I have to finish this airplane first, one way or another.

And if you are still reading after all that, some housekeeping: All the images in this and future posts should now be clickable, so keep that in mind if you want to see something in more detail on your screen.