Bleargh. I have been sick for a week. The only thing I've had the energy to do is to trace a circle onto a piece of MDF and cut/sand it to make an accurate copy of the spinner backplate.
I'm not even sure why I did this. It seems like it could be useful for cowl fitting later on.
I'm going to go lay down now.
Well, there's no sense in avoiding it any longer… I have to start on the cowling sometime.
The first step is to mark and cut a hole in the top cowl for the oil door. I ignored the dimensions in the plans and cut a hole that's more of a square than a trapezoid, since I have in mind a different arrangement for the hinge and latch.
I spent some time sanding the edges smooth, because I'm fairly certain I'll be spending a lot of time reaching my tender arms through here.
I used split plastic conduit from the auto parts store to cover the exposed wiring that runs up the firewall. I have the goal of not having any exposed wires visible to the pilot or passenger, and this is an easy way to hide them. I thought about continuing the plastic stuff all the way to the spar, but it's too fat to allow the fuel pump assembly and center cabin cover to be installed.
That pretty much does it for the wiring that I'm able to finish at the present time. There are still plenty of loose ends (literally! ha-ha!) but I need to work on some other areas first. My garage was becoming highly cluttered after a whole winter of electrical work, so I spent the evening cleaning and putting away stuff that didn't need to be out anymore.
Hmm, what to do with all these spools of aircraft wire?
A hardwood dowel and a piece of scrap lumber make a handy wire stand!
It's shocking how many little plastic containers of loose hardware I have floating around the garage:
It took me a couple hours, but I reclaimed about three quarters of it all, and put each item back in its little drawer. I still have a bunch of AN nuts and bolts, which I am not returning to the general population since I don't want an old beat-up fastener to accidentally be used for something important. Plus there's a bucket of miscellaneous parts that don't have a home right now.
Plenty of room for the next project now! Although I'm sure I'll have it looking like a pig sty in no time.
The wiring instructions for the Lightspeed ignition system are full of unusual requirements without explaining the reasons behind them. I decided to deviate from the suggested schematic in a few specific ways. Disclaimer: think carefully about how you wire your ignition system, and be careful when deviating from the manufacturer's recommendations.
To provide the ignition with a redundant source of power from my aux battery, I used a pair of Schottky diodes in a handy two-in-one package. Of course, the reason for using a Schottky here is to minimize the forward voltage drop. Power Schottkys are kind of hard to find in a convenient package – i.e. with mounting holes, insulated base, and non-solder terminals – but I got a tip about IXYS products and found this diode that is more than adequate for what I need.
The big red thing is a noise filter capacitor I installed to try and preemptively deal with the reported power supply ripple that the ignition has supposedly been known to generate. This is the same 26,000 uFd cap they install with MSD race-car ignitions, so hopefully it will do the trick. It's certainly big enough. It fits pretty well on the passenger-side subpanel, which is just a few inches aft of where the ignition will go.
The Lightspeed instructions tell you to use shielded wire for all the power connections, with the shield used as the ground return. This is impractical with my setup, although I did use shielded wire for the connections from the batteries to the diodes (with the shields used in the normal fashion, and grounded to a handy screw on the subpanel). A short length of wire connects all the ignition stuff to the single-point ground block on the firewall, and I deemed the wiring from the diodes to the capacitor to the ignition to be short enough as to not require me to fool around with shielding. Hopefully all this will be enough to avoid having ignition noise in my headphones.
Last wiring task of the day was to run a length of shielded wire from the ignition over to the corresponding switch on the pilot's side of the panel. The ignition always has power, even when the airplane is off, but it has a separate "enable" input that's wired just like a magneto P-lead. Closing the switch grounds the faux P-lead to its shield, disabling the ignition. I chose to use this approach rather than switching the power input (which you can also do) because the relative locations of all the various components would require that approach to use a whole lot more wire (and current-carrying, noise-radiating wire at that).
I would have spent more time working on the airplane this weekend, but I had to spend a whole afternoon fixing the mower. Grrr.
Lately, most of my free time has been taken up by house chores and other pursuits, leaving little time for the airplane. Today I did manage to redo the fuel plumbing that I'd previously discovered was interfering with the center tunnel runs.
I replaced the straight bulkhead fittings with 45-degree ones:
A view of the new plumbing run on the left side:
Right side:
There's sufficient clearance between the wiring and plumbing now:
Here's what it looks like from the aft side, once the fuel pump/valve/filter assembly is removed from the airplane. Lots of intertwined pipes here and not much room to fit them.
After changing the angle of the banjo fittings on the fuel selector valve, I tightened and safety-wired the nuts:
This is a common sight when you're working with rigid tubing. Cut a line too short, or overbent it, or kinked it, or scratched it? Toss it and start over. My recycle bin has plenty of 3003 aluminum in it this week.
