Matt's RV-7 Project

If you are building a taildragger, you want to wait to fit the bottom rudder fairing until you can test-fit the rudder to the fuselage to make sure the fairing is not rubbing on the tailwheel. I dug my untouched rudder bottom fairing out of storage and iteratively trimmed away at it until I had it fitting pretty well. I used a Norton cutting disc and a variety of Perma-Grit tools, which made it go fairly quickly:

The fit around the rudder horn is not completely perfect, but you need a little extra room in the cutout to get the fairing installed anyway, so I'm acceptably happy with it. I taped the fairing to the rudder and drilled the mounting holes, stepping up to #27 and countersinking for Tinnerman washers:

I added a connector to the wire bundle that emerges from the vertical stabilizer spar, and added a layer of snake skin to hopefully protect it from chafing as the rudder moves:

After fiddling with the wiring bundle, I went back and removed more material from the forward end of the bottom fairing, including a semicircular cutout to keep it from sawing its way through the cable bundle:

Rather than try to install nuts for the nav/strobe light inside the narrow confines of the fairing, I bought a mounting adapter which simply pop-rivets in place:

I somehow misplaced my old Whelen beacon light unit, so I had to order a new one. In the intervening years they have greatly reduced the thickness of these little lights, so I had to make a new mounting bracket out of stuff I had laying around. You can also just barely see the O-ring I added to hopefully keep rain from running down around the light and getting into the rudder:

The new beacon light also comes with a small LED driver as part of the cable assembly. I added a connector so I can remove the top fairing, and attached the LED driver to the rudder using an adel clamp and one of the nutplates I had fortuitously decided to install in the top rib tooling holes:

I did a very minor amount of surface work on the bottom fairing – I'll let the painter take care of the rest – and shot a coat of grey primer just to make it look nicer and to make it match the top fairing:

I made a little wiring harness that lives inside the bottom of the rudder, connecting the fuselage to the beacon light and the nav/strobe light. Although this shouldn't move around much, I used snake skin here too since unfinished fiberglass is very abrasive:

I installed both fairings and mounted the rudder on the airplane with the proper hardware, after struggling to avoid dropping any fasteners down into the bottom of the rudder. The final full-up test confirmed that all the lights are working, which was gratifying to see:

The nav/strobe light is a Whelen 550 unit, which fits great into an RV rudder. I attached it to the mounting plate with some stainless screws from the hardware store:

I got the rudder cables hooked up, with cotter pins installed, before I ran out of steam and out of weekend:

I've been planning to put some kind of red flashing ground-recognition beacon on the airplane all along, and this weekend I finally got around to making it happen. For years I've been pondering exactly what kind of beacon I need and where to mount it – see here and here for details of previous plans that didn't get completed, plus thoughts on red beacons in general. What ended up working in my favor is the fact that, while I was trying to figure out what to do, the state of the art in LED technology has advanced to the point where it now makes more sense to use LEDs rather than xenon strobes or halogen flashers for this application.

The particular unit I picked is the Vertex LED lighthead by Whelen. These guys are known in aviation circles for making certified strobes and nav lights, but they make lots of automotive products too. This one is designed to work as a warning light for a cop car or other emergency vehicle, but it happens to also be the perfect size for an airplane too. Here's a photo I grabbed from the internet since I forgot to take a "before" shot prior to getting started:

I played with various mounting positions until I decided which one I liked best – it turned out to be the top of the tail, just like on your grandpa's Cessna. Then I got out the rudder cap and started cutting away at it with a unibit and Dremel tool.

The light will be held in place by two little pieces of scrap angle that will attach to the inside of the rudder cap.

A view from the bottom side. The beacon heatsink just fits into the widest point of the rudder cap.

That has the added advantage of putting the beacon about halfway back from the leading edge of the vertical stabilizer – farther back than on a Cessna – where the light shining directly forward will be blocked instead of getting into the cockpit and annoying me by glaring off the instrument panel.

The circuit board inside the beacon is flush with the top of the rudder cap. Now we just need to do something about the exposed shoulders of the heatsink sticking out into the breeze.

I covered the beacon with saran wrap and then laid up several plies of glass tape over it in a smooth shape:

It's a little late in the season to be doing fiberglass work – i.e. the temperature is a bit low in the garage – but for small projects you can cheat and use a heat lamp to get the resin to cure in a reasonable amount of time.

After sanding the initial layup, I installed the beacon again and followed up with a flox/cabosil mixture to build up the contour and give me a nice sharp edge around the opening for the lens.

I also laid up some flox inside the rudder cap to give the body of the beacon a nice solid shoulder to sit on, as well as thickening up the inside of the lens opening to avoid having a knife edge there.

After letting that cure and sanding it back down, the general shape of the "bump" for the beacon was basically done.

I applied one more coat of dry micro with a squeegee to fill in the low spots, then sanded it smooth.

A quick spray of primer dressed it right up. I'm quite happy with how the shape turned out. There are some small surface imperfections but I'll let the painter deal with those.

The beacon lens is very low profile. I still need to countersink the mounting holes in the sides, but that can wait until I get back the drawer full of #4 tinnerman washers I loaned out.

Now that it's all sanded smooth and blended in, the slight swell for the beacon is hardly noticeable:

What's that, you say you want to see my new rudder-mounted ground recognition beacon in operation? Very well:

It's hard to properly capture with the camera, but trust me, this thing is plenty bright.